The REAL Oktoberfest

Fall has arrived and that means lots of Oktoberfest celebrations around the country including here in Central Indiana.  But these celebrations are pretty tame compared to the mother of all Oktoberfests in Munich, Germany.  We just returned from a driving trip of Eastern Europe that began in Munich where we participated in Oktoberfest kickoff celebrations.  The event starts with a huge parade that features lederhosen-wearing bands, Clydesdales pulling beer wagons and gigantic kegs of beer.  The parade ends in a beer free-for-all at the Oktoberfest grounds, which has 8 enormous beer halls that are all jam-packed with beer drinkers and oompah bands.   

As we were walking the Oktoberfest grounds, which also has amusement park rides, food and souvenir stands, it occurred to us that it was akin to our State Fair, but with a beer theme!    We watched people who had drunk so much that they were literally holding each other up and medics were roaming the grounds with stretchers ready to pick up celebrants who had passed out.  And this was just the start of a 2 week celebration!

 

Leaving Munich, we drove the legendary Autobahn getting our car up to 110 mph while other cars passed us like we were going 60!   

Up next was Budapest and Prague, both pretty, but Prague is one of the most beautiful cities in the world.  It is vibrant with gorgeous architecture, history and great shopping. 

On our way out of the Czech Republic, just a few miles from the German border, we were pulled over by Czech police who told us we didn’t have a necessary toll pass.  We had not seen or read of the requirement for pass anywhere.  When the officers said they would take cash or a credit card, we said we couldn’t do either, so they gave us a “ticket” with a handwritten bank account number on it to have money transferred into.  We’re pretty sure it was a shakedown of foreign tourists but we’re very sure that we’re NOT going to pay it!

Next was Berlin where we visited what is left of the Berlin Wall and the new Holocaust Memorial which is emotionally moving and was appropriately built on the site of one of Hitler’s headquarters. 

Finally, we ended up in Amsterdam which is a city of nonstop activity.  Between the thousands of bikes, the cars and the trams there is always movement.  One of the highlights was visiting the Anne Frank Museum which is based in the very building where she and her family hid from the Nazis for 2 years.  

This adventure had all the ingredients of a great trip:   beautiful cities, great architecture, history, art, gorgeous scenery and lots of beer!  Strangely though, we’re not beer drinkers but we still enjoyed it immensely!

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Best. Dessert. Ever.

When Ann and I are on a cruise, we seldom have meals off the ship.  Why would we?  The amount of food available on board that’s included with the price of the cruise is mind-boggling.  Breakfast, brunch, mid-morning snack, lunch, afternoon snack, late-afternoon snack, gourmet dinner, dessert, midnight chocolate buffet.  If you ever find yourself hungry on a cruise, you have only yourself to blame.  A greeting card we found in the gift shop on a cruise some years ago sums it up perfectly.  The image is a member of the dining staff dishing a substantial portion of spaghetti onto the plate of a wild-eyed, older male passenger.  The passenger is saying, “Pile it on, Guiseppe.  I haven’t eaten in almost 15 minutes.”

Me in 15 years.

There are, however, exceptions.  On our first cruise, our honeymoon in 1995, we indulged in an afternoon snack of nachos and milkshakes in the Hard Rock Café in Cozumel.  I guess we hadn’t fully embraced the cruise food phenomenon yet.  But it was a stop on the Greek island of Rhodes in 2009 where we made our best off-ship culinary discovery.  We didn’t take any kind of guided excursion, deciding instead to venture through the ancient city of Rhodes on our own.  After hours of castles, churches, guilds and every kind of gift/clothing/souvenir shop imaginable, we found ourselves in a small square.  A fountain in the middle, surrounded by a church on one side, shops on the other and various eateries all around.  We were a little tired and a little hungry.  We’d take care of both issues by sitting down at a table under the awning of one the restaurants and ordering a local favorite: baklava.  The waiter assured us that one order would be big enough for both of us, especially since it was served a la mode. 

That's Ann in the blue skirt in the archway to the left (post-baklava).

To this day, I can’t explain why this particular baklava was so good.  The nuts were especially nutty.  The syrup, amazingly syrupy.  The phyllo dough, uncommonly phyllo-y.  And the whole, warm, decadent thing covered with melting vanilla ice cream.  We finished it off as a gentle rain began to fall.  Perhaps it was the food itself.  Or maybe it was the romantic setting of a medieval town on an island in the Mediterranean.  Whatever it was, Ann and I agree that it was the best dessert ever.

John

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Extreme Travel Bucket List

I've had my travel bucket list and then I've had my EXTREME travel bucket list.  My bucket list includes such places as Australia, China, Kenya, and Cambodia. They're all far away and exotic and take some effort to get to.  But the EXTREME bucket list includes Easter Island, Antarctica & Tibet.  That's my extreme travel triumvirate or ETT for all you acronym fans.  All three are about as remote in the world as you can possibly get.  All three invoke an aura of mystery.  All three require numerous flights/sailings to reach and all three can only be reached during certain times of the year or on certain days of the week (usually depending on weather and season).  My point is that you really have to want to go because the journey getting there is very difficult.

We've already discussed Easter Island in an earlier blog and Antarctica is yet to come for us in February.  So that leaves Tibet.  Tibet was part of our most ambitious journey ever in the summer of 2010.  I admit it was tough and was part of my "while we're in the neighborhood" theory.  I had been to India, but John had not.  We had been wanting to visit Angkor Wat in Cambodia and check out Vietnam.  I had always heard that Singapore was gorgeous.  But above all, if we were going to that part of the world, I knew that I had to visit Tibet.  Maybe it was watching "7 Years In Tibet" or reading "Lost Horizon".  Maybe it was viewing  documentaries about Tibet or seeing the protests around the time of the Beijing Olympics.  Or maybe it's just my tendency to want to see parts of the world that are almost forbidden.   Whatever it was, I was not going to go back to that part of the world without seeing Tibet. 

So, we started the process in February.  I managed to use frequent flyer miles into Delhi and out of Singapore which was a proud moment for me.  Then we just needed the inter-continent flights and hotels.  We got everything arranged and then started working on the visas.  We needed visas for every country except Singapore.  So, not only did it cost a huge amount just for the visas (in the neighborhood of $800), we also had to make sure our passports were sent to each consulate.  Tibet was the big issue.  You had to get a Chinese Visa and on top of that you had to have a Tibetan permit.  You could only get a Tibetan permit from the travel company that you were working with in Tibet and you HAD to work with a Tibetan agency or you just don't get in.  You must be escorted in Tibet at practically all times.

We had all our visas, even the Chinese visa, when the travel company we were working with in Asia told us that there was a problem getting the Tibetan permit.  This was now April and we were leaving in early June so that was not something I wanted to hear.  We were flying from Delhi to Tibet through Kathmandu, Nepal which was a pretty quick and direct flight.  The Chinese authorities, however, do not allow just everybody to fly into Tibet and, in fact, they watch very carefully who flies in from Kathmandu.  They watch so closely that they want to "eyeball" everybody before they issue them a permit.  Our flight laid over only a couple of hours on a day that the Chinese embassy was closed and they, literally, want you to present yourself at the Chinese Embassy to get the permit.  Well, that was obviously not going to work.  So, 2 months into the planning we find that we are going to have to shake it all up or abandon going to Tibet all together.  I repeat.....I was NOT going to go to that part of the world without seeing Tibet.  If we flew in from China, it would not be a problem.  So, we somehow managed to change our flight and instead of flying a couple of hours from Delhi to Kathmandu, we were to fly all night from Delhi to Guangzhu and Chengdu, China.   That would bypass the "eyeballing" and then it was just an issue of getting the permit from the travel agency in China.  That was going to require meeting a representative of the travel agency (SITA) in the Guangzhou airport and they would then literally hand us our permit.

I was not totally comfortable with this plan since we didn't have all our permits in hand before we left home and were leaving acceptance into Tibet up to someone meeting us in an airport in China.  We would not have been allowed on the plane to Tibet in Guangzhou without this permit so it was pretty important that the travel agency actually met us.   We wouldn't know if it all worked out until we got there so we were sort of flying by the seat of our pants.  I was just a little nervous about it.

In the end, it all worked out and the travel agent met us, as planned, at the airport.  He helped us find our next flight and saw us on our way.  We had a fabulous stay in Lhasa, Tibet.  So, we had no real trouble getting INTO Tibet, however we had trouble getting OUT as our reservations had been cancelled somehow.  That's another story for another blog.  After all we went through, we made it in with no trouble and then had trouble getting out!  Go figure.  It was, however, worth every single uncertain moment and despite all these problems AND some altitude sickness too, I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Tibet IS magical.

Thanks for reading!
Ann
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A Trip Back Somewhere in Time

Less than a 2 hour drive from Indianapolis is a world class resort that combines both 21^st century amenities with the vestiges of a bygone era.  I’m talking about the French Lick Resort & Casino and the West Baden Springs Resort which have a rich history that few people know about.  We were there recently and stayed at West Baden Springs Resort.  It left me with a haunting memory on 2 levels that I just can’t shake.  

First the history:  French Lick’s hotel was built in 1850 and West Baden just a couple of years later.  They’re a little difficult to get to today so you have to wonder why and how did anyone go there back in 1850.  The “why” is the water.  There are mineral springs flowing under French Lick and West Baden that people back in the 19^th century believed to be “curative” waters.  They were proclaimed to cure every ill from constipation to diabetes.  The springs are still there today, but are covered up to try to disguise the strong sulfur smell.  But back in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s people were paying top dollar to drink the waters and spend time at the resorts.  

The “how” was the old iron horse.  Trains took people from all over the country right up to the front door of the French Lick Resort.  In fact, there was a special receiving depot where the passengers would disembark and immediately partake in the “healing” waters before retiring to their luxuriously-appointed rooms.  

West Baden which is only a mile from French Lick was built to be spectacular.  When it was completed, it had a dome that was the largest in the world.  In fact, it was referred to as the “8^th wonder of the world”.  There were rooms that overlooked the massive dome’s lobby and there were spas and restaurants and shops.  They say people would sit in the gorgeous and expansive lobby to chat, people watch and look out for celebrities. 

Both hotels went through fires and renovations and resurgences.  But for almost 100 years, they were world-renowned and they welcomed just about everybody who was anybody.  Clark Gable stayed there.  So did Bing and FDR and…. well, they have walls full of pictures of celebrities and politicos who have stayed at the resorts.

The Great Depression hit them hard and the owner of West Baden eventually sold it to the Jesuits for $1.  The Jesuits called it home for 30 years and then  sold it to Northwood College.  The college held it for another 20 years and then when they left, it fell into complete disrepair for another 15 years until Historic Landmarks bought it and convinced the late philanthropist William Cook to restore it.  Some $400,000,000 later, both resorts are back to the original splendor.  In fact, they may be even better now since a world class golf course has been added to the property.  The Pete Dye Golf Course at French Lick was designed by arguably the best golf course designer in history, Pete Dye and it is unbelievable.  It’s built in the hills of southern Indiana and provides a truly breathtaking view.  I, frankly, wondered how they could charge $300 for a round of golf in Indiana but after seeing the course, I can understand.  

That’s the history of the resorts….and now my history: 

I spent the honeymoon of my first marriage at French Lick back in 1975.  I was a 19 year old girl at the time and was getting ready to embark on a new adventure:  moving with my first husband, Bob, to Tehran, Iran where I lived for 1 ½ years.  It was the start of a new life full of promise. I was very excited and had a great time during the short, 2 day, honeymoon stay at French Lick.  But the promise didn’t hold true and the marriage ended 19 years later.  I’ve been hugely happily married to John for 16 years now, so it’s rare for me to think of my past life and feel any real sadness.  But while at French Lick I found myself feeling a little haunted by the person I used to be.  John played golf one day and I went back over to the French Lick resort to walk around by myself.  And to add to my nostalgic mood, the resort was playing melancholy 70’s music!  Tears actually welled up in my eyes as I fondly remembered my time there and the feelings I once had for Bob.  It was strange but maybe good too.  Bad memories so often crowd out the good ones that you forget you had good times too.

The French Lick Hotel reminds me a bit of the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island, Michigan which is where the cult classic movie “Somewhere in Time” was filmed.  The movie is a tragic story about lost love and time travel and was set in the same era in which the French Lick resorts were popular.  I usually need Kleenex when I watch “Somewhere in Time” so that feeling served to evoke a rather haunting feeling in me as well.

We visited French Lick again back in the 80’s after Northwood College had abandoned it.  It was in terrible shape.  I remember walking inside the littered lobby and looking up at the incredible dome and thinking “I’ll bet this was really something in its day”.  Well, now, it is once again!  

It is well worth a trip if you’ve got a weekend to spare.  Be sure and check out the old barbershop at West Baden Springs for a trip back in time.  And at French Lick be sure and stop to check out the wall posters that are everywhere.  They are of actual postcards of the resort dating back to the early 1900’s.  There’s also a gazebo behind the resort that still has an open spring of the famous “Pluto” water that the resort was famous for.  You’ll know when you’ve found it from the smell!

Ann 

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The Dangers of Just Sitting There

Imagine a trip that included white water rafting in the Colorado River, horseback riding in New Mexico and hiking the trails near Mt. Rushmore and the steep plateaus of Mesa Verde.  You wouldn’t think that the most dangerous part of said trip was just sitting in the car.  But that’s exactly what put me in an Oklahoma City hospital for three days in the summer of 2008. 

(l-r) George, Ann, John, Abe (not pictured: Tom, Ted)

First, the back story.  Ann & I decided to take a “see America” drive out west.  Our route would take us from our home in Greenwood, IN to Sioux Falls, SD, through Badlands National Park with a stop at Mt. Rushmore.  Then south to Denver, eventually making our way to Mesa Verde in southwest Colorado near the town of Cortez.  From there, it was a brief side trip to Four Corners for the obligatory picture (“Look at me.  I’m standing in four states at once.”) and Monument Valley in Utah, before reaching our next stop, a rural real estate development south of Albuquerque, NM.  (We were offered a free stay in a beautiful prairie home if we listened to a sales pitch.  How could we say no?).

Monument Valley (Is this inappropriate?)

The homestretch would take us through Santa Fe (for lunch), with an overnight in Oklahoma City.  But this is where things got a little squirrely.  About two hours outside Santa Fe, I started to get what at first seemed like heartburn… the burritos and refried beans for lunch in Santa Fe may not have been the best choice.  But as the pain became more intense and my breathing more labored somewhere in the Texas panhandle, I thought it best that I hand the driving duties over to Ann.  Finally, as we crossed the Texas/Oklahoma border I decided this wasn’t heartburn, but potentially something worse.  Considering my family history of heart trouble (a heart attack took my mom, one brother survived a heart attack and another brother required a stent for a heart blockage), I was sure I was having a heart attack. 

We found an emergency room at a small hospital just outside Oklahoma City.  After a battery of tests, we got the good news: no heart attack.  The bad news: pulmonary embolism.  Three blood clots in my lungs were causing the pain and the trouble breathing.  The emergency room personnel thought I should be transferred a larger hospital in Oklahoma City for more specialized care.  That’s where I spent the next three days undergoing more tests and getting pumped full of blood thinners.  The diagnosis was deep vein thrombosis - clots that had formed in my legs because of the cramped quarters of being in a car for a week had broken loose and moved to my lungs.  Despite all the activity along the way - hiking, rafting, horseback riding – it was the relative inactivity of sitting in the car for 2500 miles that really took its toll.    This is the kind of ailment that is often referred to as Economy Class Syndrome because of its common occurrence during long-distance plane trips.  It was also a DVT and pulmonary embolism that took the life of NBC reporter David Bloom while covering the war in Iraq in 2003.

Luxurious accommodations in Oklahoma City

Our plan was to spend one night in an Oklahoma City hotel.  Instead, it was three days in a hospital gown enjoying typical hospital cuisine.  I spent the next year on a regular regimen of blood thinners.  And to this day I still take special care on our long, international flights (and long car trips), making sure to drink plenty of water, walk around every couple of hours and wear knee-high compression socks.  One fashion tip: don’t wear the compression socks with shorts.


John 

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Going Exotic!

We were recently asked to pick the most exotic place we’ve ever been.  That, I thought, was kind of tough.  I immediately scanned the globe in my brain and went from the Amazon to Cambodia to Egypt to Tibet and beyond.  But probably the place that stands out as the most exotic is Easter Island which is the most remote inhabited island in the world.

You can only fly to Easter Island from Chile or Tahiti. We went from Tahiti. In case you're not familiar with it, Easter Island, known to the natives as Rapa Nui, is the home of the Moai statues, those tall monolithic roughly hewn human figures that have been a mystery for a thousand years. No one is sure why they were made or how they got them from the mountain quarry to the coastline miles away where they were placed on pedestals. There are hundreds of these statues all over the island and you can literally walk right up to them and touch them. There is a quarry full of Moai that were never completed that is eery and looks like a Moai graveyard.

We were there on New Year's Eve and stayed in a cabin right on the coast with a view of the Pacific Ocean and the island's only city, Hanga Roa, which is small and quaint. 

We rang in the New Year with a bottle of champaign while watching fireworks over Hanga Roa from the patio of our cabin. The next day, New Year's Day, we rented a scooter and set out to explore the island. There isn't a spot on the island that doesn't have a view of the beautiful Pacific Ocean. We drove along the rugged, stark coastline and stopped along the way to examine some Moia up close or just watched the waves hit the rocky shore. 

An almost treacherous ride up to the summit of the island's inactive volcano gave us our best view. We could look down into the now-quiet crater that was responsible for giving birth to this tiny island. Near the crater are the ruins of a major Rapa Nui village where you can walk amongst what is left of their homes. We visited ancient caves where the natives left paintings and other artifacts. But mostly we just enjoyed exploring this tropical island that few people in the world have ever seen. There were no crowds anywhere and it was almost like we were the only people left on earth. It was one of our favorite, best days ever.

Ann

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Ruins of the World: Pompeii

I love ruins.  There is nothing more exciting than scrambling all over an ancient site where a once great civilization lived and ruled.  There is so much you can tell about them and how advanced they were just by what is still left behind today.  But usually ruins are just that:  ruins.  You can tell where a wall or a roof might have been, but in many cases, there’s just not much left.  Not so with one of our favorite sites:  Pompeii.   

Pompeii was covered with ash back in 79 AD by an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius which is still an active volcano today near Naples, Italy.  That ash buried Pompeii, but at the same time it preserved it.  The ancient city was completely forgotten until accidentally discovered again in the 18^th century.   

In recent history, archeologists have worked to uncover it and what they have found is a city frozen in time. The cobblestone streets appear as they did when Roman chariots rode them.   

There’s a large beautiful ampitheater where shows are still held today. 
 
There’s a roman bath where you can still see what’s left of the beautiful fountains and artwork on the ceilings.  

On one well-preserved street there is a bakery with a large stone that was used to grind the wheat for bread.   

What is really unique about Pompeii is that the homes were preserved.  Most world-renowned ruins are of temples or monuments, such as in Egypt, but homes were usually made of wood or mud or lesser materials that wouldn’t last through the centuries.  In Pompeii you can actually walk in someone’s home and see their courtyard and, in many cases, mosaics and paintings on the walls, still very colorful today.   

One of the most interesting buildings that is very well-preserved is a brothel.  It’s a 2 story building that actually had “menus” painted on the walls where a “patron” could order what he wanted.  These “menus” are amusingly graphic and still amazingly visible today. 
 

The brothel had stone beds and even a toilet which looks like a latrine. 

One of the most amazing things of all in Pompeii, however, is that archeologists have found bodies of victims.  Actually what they found was the space where a decomposed body had been.  They then filled it with a polymer and were able to basically make a “cast” of the body.  

You can actually see the victims’ tortured positions as they succumbed to the ash.  It’s chilling and it’s about as close as you’ll ever get to a 2000 year old body.   

You can spend a whole day walking this fascinating place.  We’d recommend the audio tour.  There’s also a sound and light show at night that re-enacts the eruption.  The Roman Empire is one of the greatest stories in history, Pompeii is like walking back in time to where the average Roman lived.

 

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While We're in the Neighborhood...

The first international trip Ann & I took together was for our first anniversary in 1996.  We went to Paris and London.  Fairly relaxing.  Very romantic.  It’s not unusual for someone to visit those two countries on the same vacation.  That’s what they built the “Chunnel” for, right?  In subsequent years we traveled to Italy and Greece, England and Scotland, Germany and Switzerland, Spain and France.  But since then, Ann’s taste for travel has become a bit more, shall we say, ambitious.  It was around 2004 that I started to recognize her ever more insatiable need for better and longer trips.  I call it her “While-we’re-in-the-neighborhood” theory. 

We were planning a trip to Rio de Janeiro for Carnival when she decided, “When are we ever going to go to South America again?  While we’re there, we might as well go to Peru so we can see Machu Picchu.”  Paris to London?  Sure.  Athens to Rome?  No problem.  Rio to Lima?  Uhhhh…  Let’s get some perspective.  Rio to Lima is like going from New York to L.A.  Not exactly a weekend getaway, but I was up to the challenge.  It turned out to be a great trip… and was only the beginning of the “While-we’re-in-the-neighborhood” travel.  Now, any international trip that doesn’t cover at least three countries is a waste of time.  And if it is less than three, they’re most likely going to be at opposite ends of a continent.  2005: Japan, Thailand and Hong Kong.  2006: Kenya and Egypt.  2008: Tahiti and Easter Island.

But perhaps the zenith of Ann’s “While-we’re…” ambition came last year in a trip to South and Southeast Asia.  Not just two countries.  Or three.  Or even four.  FIVE countries in one trip!  India, Tibet, Vietnam, Cambodia and Singapore.  14 airports in 14 days.  Oh sure, it was great.  And the sites were spectacular, contrasting the ancient rustic beauty of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat with the gleaming 21^st century skyscrapers of Singapore, with the Taj Mahal thrown in for good measure.  But if I thought too much about what it was going to take to complete a journey of some 26,000+ miles, I’d have been curled up in the fetal position.  Don’t get me started about what it takes to get visas and permits to get into Tibet.  That’s a story for another blog (or a six-part Ken Burns mini-series on Discovery).

The Lonely Planet blog recently had a debate: one destination vs. multiple countries.  It’s obvious which side of that debate Ann falls on.  I have come to embrace Ann’s “While-we’re-in-the-neighborhood” travel style.  It has made for some amazing adventures and wonderful memories.  Next up: back to Europe later this year for stops in Germany, Hungary, Czech Republic, Belgium and The Netherlands.  Oh, did I mention we’re doing all that by car?  I’ll let you know how that goes.

John 

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Welcome!

I think I was born traveling.  My earliest memories are of my parents sticking my sister and me in the back seat of our car on what would now be a highly illegal bunky board, with no seatbelts, and heading out.  Later, they bought a camper and I was drug all over the country riding in the back.  Traveling in such close quarters is not something a maturing young girl really wants to do. 

We hit all 48 contiguous states and by the time I was in 4^th grade we visited Hawaii too on the first of what would be numerous trips.  My parents loved Hawaii and wanted to move there.  They were able to spend many winters there in retirement, and, in fact, both their ashes are scattered on Diamond Head according to their wishes.  When I was 18 we traveled on a Holy Lands tour for a month that included Egypt, Israel, Jordan, Syria, Lebanon, Rome and Greece with unbelievable sights that most people only dream of seeing.  Then at 19, I got married and moved to Tehran, Iran where I lived for a year and a half.  But that’s another story.

   I didn’t realize at the time what a great gift my parents had given me.  Not only did I get to see these historic and iconic wonders of the world for myself but it instilled in me a lifelong love of travel.  In fact, I am not ashamed to admit that I am a travel junkie.  Nothing gets me more excited than traveling to some far-off exotic place. The downside is that it’s getting harder and harder to feed the addiction.

  I have now been fortunate enough to visit all 50 states, 65 countries and 6 continents…..so far.  The plane’s wheels usually haven’t even touched down from one adventure and I’m already planning the next one.  And that’s the way I see our trips, as adventures.  I do actually have a travel bucket list and I’m checking them off steadily and we have a huge wall map in our basement tracking our travels.  Travel is my passion.  It is an education like none other.  Not only does it bring history alive and make geography personal, but you learn so much about people from other cultures.  In today’s world, it wouldn’t hurt if we knew a little bit more about the other people on the planet.  Luckily, John, my second husband, was okay with my obsession and has been a willing participant and even an enabler.  More soon!  Ann

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